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In Nature, the balance is maintained when beneficial predator insects, birds and animals keep insect pests at non-threatening levels.
Lady birds, lacewings, native bees and birds feed on the pollen and nectar of herb flowers, which provide long term food and habitat for beneficial insects because they remain in flower for many months. Frogs, bats and lizards also eat large numbers of insects, but not always just the pest insects!
By interplanting a selection of flowering herbs attractive to predator insects with your vegetables, fruit trees, roses, perennials, and shrubs, you can eliminate the use of harnmful chemical pesticides. Borage, dill, German chamomile, nasturtium, pineapple sage and elder, all flower early and will attract birds and bees too.
By not using chemmicals in our backyards, we are taking a small step for the planet and a large one for the future well being of our family, friends, pets and wildlife.
Click here to find out more about organic gardening!
The well known insect repelling abilities of herbs have been part of Northern Hemisphere folklore for some time. Unfortunately some Australian and American garden pests are somewhat unaffected by European plants and have often ignored them.
Click here to find out more about organic gardening!
The well known insect repelling abilities of herbs have been part of Northern Hemisphere folklore for some time. Unfortunately some Australian and American garden pests are somewhat unaffected by European plants and have often ignored them.
In both the US and Australia, some pest insects have been seen dining on these insect repelling plants from North of the Equator. As a result, insect repelling plants from Europe have a rather sluggish reputation elsewhere in the World.
Modern research into biological pest control shows that attracting beneficial insects with flowering herbs is a double whammy, and more effective than relying on companion plants only. Using companion planting, attracting garden predators, and using plant based repellant sprays as a last resort, is integrated plant pest control at it’s very best.
Many herbs contain substances which protect them from pest attack. Unfortunately these compounds do not protect neighbouring plants. However if these ingredients are extracted from the herb and used as a gardening spray, they will kill or repell pests.
There is now some evidence which shows that compost tea is a very useful fungicide, and could be added to any homemade garden pest control sprays.
Click here to read about making good compost!
Sprays made from poison producing plants have been used for centuries, and until you achieve a balance between beneficial insects and garden pests, you may need to make your own spray to minimise damage to your plants.
Sprays made from poison producing plants have been used for centuries, and until you achieve a balance between beneficial insects and garden pests, you may need to make your own spray to minimise damage to your plants.
Remember that any spray made from a plant poison is toxic, so use caution, allow a withholding period, and store sprays in a well-labelled glass container, not metal or plastic.
Be careful with pyrethrum. While it is effective on many pest insects, it can kill bees and ladybirds. Use at night, and be selective. Don’t spray flowering plants that will attract bees. Dried pyrethrum flower heads can be crumbled and sprinkled over vulnerable plants.
To make a pyrethrum spray, steep 2 good handfuls of dried, powdered flower heads in a litre of hot water for an hour or so. Puree or strain, and spray.
Click here to learn about companion planting!
*General pesticide and fungicide for: aphids, caterpillars, thrips and blackspot.
Click here to learn about companion planting!
*General pesticide and fungicide for: aphids, caterpillars, thrips and blackspot.
Gently simmer 500g Elder leaves in3.5L water for 30 minutes. Replace water lost as steam. Strain, add a drop of detergent to help contact with the plant, and spray.
*Another general fungicide for mildew, blackspot, damping off and rust. Boil together some chamomile flowers, chive leaves, elder leaves, horseradish leaves and casuarina leaves. Let stand for an hour, then spray.
*General pest control. 2 parts feverfew flowers, 1 part pyrethrum flowers, kerosene, 2 drops sesame oil. Chop flowers, soak in kerosine and stand overnight in a dark cool place. Strain and dilute one part liquid to six parts water. Add sesame oil and spray.
*For ants, spray or paint pennyroyal oil on tracks and nests. Use ½ cup of Pennyroyal leaves 1 cup of Safflower oil, combine pennyroyal and oil in a blender. Bottle and stand for a day in a warm place.
Click here to subscribe to our Home Herb and Garden Newlsetter, and get access to your FREE Lifestyle eBooks!
*Chopped spring onions and chillies simmered together makes a good, safe and simple insecticidal spray.
*Chopped spring onions and chillies simmered together makes a good, safe and simple insecticidal spray.
*Three large spoonfuls of quassia chips boiled in 3 litres of water makes another useful general insecticide.
*Another good one to deter possums, rabbits, snails and slugs. This recipe will also kill aphids, bean fly and white fly. 1 cup of chillies, 1 cup of wormwood leaves, 6 cups of water. Simmer chillies and wormwood with 6 cups of water. Stand for one hour and spray. Chillies are hot stuff, so do not allow contact with eyes or skin!
*Pure soap such as Sunlight used at 10g per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent, and 5ml of coconut oil per litre of spray is effective for helping the pesticide to stick to plants.
There are many other plants that can be used for making sprays. If you are experimenting, try not to use those that are highly poisonous. An insect deterrent is always better than a poison. Remember that using companion planting tecniques, attracting garden predators, and using plant based repellants, and poison sprays as a very last resort, is the most effective garden plant pest control program there is.
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Natural pesticides are a cheap and safer alternative to products bought in a store. Unfortunately, these recipes are being lost as advertising to use modern chemicals increases. It is not old fashioned to use natural pesticides – rather it is a smart use of the natural resources that are readily available!
Leaves, bark, seeds and wood can have toxic effects on different plant pests. Natural pesticides usually take longer to work than synthetic pesticides. Thus, it is important to apply them as soon as the plants show evidence of pests. When preparing a pesticide from plants, always let them dry in the shade, because direct sunlight could break down the active ingredients. Strain or filter any liquid with a cloth to remove any loose material. Adding a little soap will help the liquid adhere to the plants. When applying, wet both sides of the leaves. Some substances can burn young plant tissue unless they are diluted. Try first on a small patch before applying broadcast.
Many natural predators in the nursery help control pests. Insects such as spiders, dragonflies and ladybugs specialize in eating other insects. Before killing any insect or animal, first consider what it eats!
Insecticides. Insects are killed either by contact or by ingestion of the insecticides. Some insecticides only repel the insects by a strong odour.
- Neem (Azadirachta indica). A tree native to India and Pakistan, but planted widely around the world for its use as a natural pesticide. In addition to being an insecticide, it has been used as a fungicide, nematicide and bactericide. Commercial products made with neem include Bioneem, Margoan-O, Biotrol and Nimex. The active ingredient in neem mimics an insect hormone and repels insects, as well as inhibiting their digestion, metamorphosis and reproduction. It has been used effectively on over 100 leaf-eating insects. To use neem, collect mature seeds, wash and remove the husk, and allow to dry completely. Take twelve handfuls of dry seeds (or use 500 grams per 10 litres water) and grind them into a fine powder. Mix the powder in 12 litres of water and soak overnight. Strain the liquid and apply.
- Anona y guanábana, custard apple and soursop (Annona squamosa, A. muricata). Collect two handfuls of seeds and dry. Grind into a fine powder. Mix with 4 litres of water and soak overnight.
- Chile, pepper (Capsicum frutescens). Collect two handfuls of chillies and dry. Grind into a fine powder, taking care not to inhale too much of the highly irritating dust, mix with 2 litres of water and soak overnight.
- Tabaco, tobacco (Nicotiana tabacum). Only real tobacco contains nicotine, the substance acting as an insecticide. Collect healthy, fresh leaves which are free of spots. Mix 80 grams of dry leaves and stems per litre of water and soak for two days. Best if applied in the early morning because the solution is very volatile — it escapes as a gas. CAUTION: Tobacco is toxic to people, do not breath the vapours, or allow to touch the skin.
- Piretro, pyrethrum (Chrysanthemum cinerariifolium). A widely cultivated annual flower. The active ingredient is found in the flowers. Collect only fully opened flowers. Mix 100 grams of dried flowers in 1 litre of water and soak for one day. Can be stored for up to two months, but strain it first.
- Rícino, castor bean (Ricinus communis). Leaves and stems can be used, but the seeds are the most effective part. Mix 300 grams of dry plant material for every 1 litre of water and soak for one day. The active ingredients rapidly disintegrate, therefore the insecticide must be applied frequently and with fresh solution each time. Also works as a nematicide and fungicide.
- Mata ratón, cacaute, gliricidia (Gliricidia sepium). Roots, seeds and leaves are poisonous to rats and other small animals. Also an insecticide against aphids.
- Ajo, garlic (Allium savitum). Finely chop 3 bulbs of garlic and mix with 10 litres of water. You can store this for up to two weeks unstrained, although its effect on the plant lasts only for one to three days after applying it.
The following mixtures are said to relieve the symptoms of some virus diseases:
- Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis). Mix 200 grams of fresh leaves per litre of water. Mix at least 5 minutes in a blender. Used against several virus diseases in tomatoes and beans.
- Dahlia (Dahlia pinnata). Mix 150 grams of fruit per litre of water.
- Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba). A tree native to China, widely planted as an ornamental in cities because it is highly resistant to pollution. Mix 1 kg of dry leaves and roots in 1 litre of alcohol. Soak for 24–36 hours. Filter and dilute with 15 litres of water.
- Espinaca, spinach (Spinacea oleracea). Mix 200 grams of fresh plant leaves per litre of water and soak for one day.
Non-plant substances used as insecticides
- Chalk. Mix 3–5 grams of chalk per litre of water. Soak for 12 hours if construction grade chalk is used, 3– 4 days if natural chalk is used. Stir frequently and apply directly. Dehydrates the insect when in contact. It can burn young plant tissue and should therefore only be used on mature leaves.
- Mineral oil. Use a high grade oil such as ultra fine spray oil or M-Pede. Mix 10–30 ml of mineral oil in a small amount of water, then add one litre of water, stir constantly. Cooking oil can be used instead of mineral oil, if soap is added. Dehydrates or suffocates the insects or their eggs when in contact.
- Animal urine. Collect cow or goat urine and mix with a small amount of soil. Allow to ferment for two weeks. Dilute with 2–4 litres of water per litre of urine. Urine is very high in nitrogen and thus can burn tender leaves. Do not apply in full sun, and dilute further if necessary. Human urine can also be used.
- Cow’s milk. Mix 1/2 cup of fresh, unpasteurized milk with 4 cups of flour and 20 litres of water. It kills insect eggs and acts against some insects which carry viruses.
Fungicides. Fungi prosper in conditions of high humidity and shade. Reducing these two factors helps control them. Fungi often appear first on the lower leaves of the plant because the spores are released from the soil. Always apply fungicides to the soil and the bottom leaves.
- Papaya (Carica papaya). Finely chop 1 kg of dry leaves and mix with one litre of water; stand overnight. Dilute with four litres of water.
- Ajo y cebolla, garlic and onion. (Allium sativum, A. cepa). Mix 500 grams finely chopped material in 10 litres of water. Allow to ferment for one week. Dilute with another 10 litres of water. Incorporate into the soil.
- Canavalia (Canavalia sp.). Canavalia has been shown to kill the nests of leaf-cutter ants. The ants do not eat the leaves they cut, but use the leaves to grow a fungus which the ants eat. Canavalia leaves prevent the fungus from growing, and this starves the ants. It can be planted around the border of the nursery.
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In Nature, the balance is maintained when beneficial predator insects, birds and animals keep insect pests at non-threatening levels.
Lady birds, lacewings, native bees and birds feed on the pollen and nectar of herb flowers, which provide long term food and habitat for beneficial insects because they remain in flower for many months. Frogs, bats and lizards also eat large numbers of insects, but not always just the pest insects!
By interplanting a selection of flowering herbs attractive to predator insects with your vegetables, fruit trees, roses, perennials, and shrubs, you can eliminate the use of harnmful chemical pesticides. Borage, dill, German chamomile, nasturtium, pineapple sage and elder, all flower early and will attract birds and bees too.
By not using chemmicals in our backyards, we are taking a small step for the planet and a large one for the future well being of our family, friends, pets and wildlife.
The well known insect repelling abilities of herbs have been part of Northern Hemisphere folklore for some time. Unfortunately some Australian and American garden pests are somewhat unaffected by European plants and have often ignored them.
In both the US and Australia, some pest insects have been seen dining on these insect repelling plants from North of the Equator. As a result, insect repelling plants from Europe have a rather sluggish reputation elsewhere in the World.
Modern research into biological pest control shows that attracting beneficial insects with flowering herbs is a double whammy, and more effective than relying on companion plants only. Using companion planting, attracting garden predators, and using plant based repellant sprays as a last resort, is integrated plant pest control at it’s very best.
Many herbs contain substances which protect them from pest attack. Unfortunately these compounds do not protect neighbouring plants. However if these ingredients are extracted from the herb and used as a gardening spray, they will kill or repell pests.
There is now some evidence which shows that compost tea is a very useful fungicide, and could be added to any homemade garden pest control sprays.
Sprays made from poison producing plants have been used for centuries, and until you achieve a balance between beneficial insects and garden pests, you may need to make your own spray to minimise damage to your plants.
Remember that any spray made from a plant poison is toxic, so use caution, allow a withholding period, and store sprays in a well-labelled glass container, not metal or plastic.
Be careful with pyrethrum. While it is effective on many pest insects, it can kill bees and ladybirds. Use at night, and be selective. Don’t spray flowering plants that will attract bees. Dried pyrethrum flower heads can be crumbled and sprinkled over vulnerable plants.
To make a pyrethrum spray, steep 2 good handfuls of dried, powdered flower heads in a litre of hot water for an hour or so. Puree or strain, and spray.
*General pesticide and fungicide for: aphids, caterpillars, thrips and blackspot.
Gently simmer 500g Elder leaves in3.5L water for 30 minutes. Replace water lost as steam. Strain, add a drop of detergent to help contact with the plant, and spray.
*Another general fungicide for mildew, blackspot, damping off and rust. Boil together some chamomile flowers, chive leaves, elder leaves, horseradish leaves and casuarina leaves. Let stand for an hour, then spray.
*General pest control. 2 parts feverfew flowers, 1 part pyrethrum flowers, kerosene, 2 drops sesame oil. Chop flowers, soak in kerosine and stand overnight in a dark cool place. Strain and dilute one part liquid to six parts water. Add sesame oil and spray.
*For ants, spray or paint pennyroyal oil on tracks and nests. Use ½ cup of Pennyroyal leaves 1 cup of Safflower oil, combine pennyroyal and oil in a blender. Bottle and stand for a day in a warm place.
*Chopped spring onions and chillies simmered together makes a good, safe and simple insecticidal spray.
*Three large spoonfuls of quassia chips boiled in 3 litres of water makes another useful general insecticide.
*Another good one to deter possums, rabbits, snails and slugs. This recipe will also kill aphids, bean fly and white fly. 1 cup of chillies, 1 cup of wormwood leaves, 6 cups of water. Simmer chillies and wormwood with 6 cups of water. Stand for one hour and spray. Chillies are hot stuff, so do not allow contact with eyes or skin!
*Pure soap such as Sunlight used at 10g per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent, and 5ml of coconut oil per litre of spray is effective for helping the pesticide to stick to plants.
There are many other plants that can be used for making sprays. If you are experimenting, try not to use those that are highly poisonous. An insect deterrent is always better than a poison. Remember that using companion planting tecniques, attracting garden predators, and using plant based repellants, and poison sprays as a very last resort, is the most effective garden plant pest control program there is.
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Now that we are in the new century, there seems to be a much higher recognition of organically grown food.
When I was growing organic vegetables and herbs in the 1980’s, the markets were uncertain to say the least. People didn’t seem to care where the vegetables came from, or how they were produced. Much of my time was spent explaining to potential customers the benefits of organically growing vegetables and herbs.
However, much more variety in organic foods is available now, from cereals, meat, grains, and many other staple foods. It’s getting a bit easier to obtain organically grown vegetables, but in many areas they are still hard to find in the shops.
Organic gardens are definitely the way of the future. You don’t have to eat genetically modified vegetables if you don’t wish to. You don’t have to eat limp, store-bought vegetables with high levels of pesticides. You can grow beautiful tasty vegetables in your own back yard, and be the envy of your street. We will show you how! Right now! If you have the materials on hand, you set up your no-dig organic garden in an afternoon!
*Organically grown vegetables taste better, are better for you, and have a far higher mineral and vitamin content than broad acre crops do.
* Basically, organically grown means that the grower does not use chemicals at all, no pesticides, and no chemical fertilisers.
* Crops are grown using composts, manures, and organic fertilisers.
* Insects are countered by using garlic and white pepper, or garlic and hot chillie sprays, but only if needed.
* Growers try to maintain a natural balance between ‘good’ and ‘bad’ insects.
* The ‘good’ insects predate on the ‘bad’ insects.
* Companion planting of vegetables and herbs helps the process along. This is a science in itself.
* Some herbs repel some insects. Pennyroyal, geranium, tansy, and marigolds, and many others are used to repel insects. Dried marigold leaves and flowers can be crushed and mixed with seeds when planting, to keep away insects when the seedlings emerge.
* Lizards and frogs are encouraged to the garden, they eat many insects. So do small insectivorous bats.
* Crops are grown ‘in season’ to reduce impacts of insect predation. It also reduces the need to use pesticides, and subsequent loss of ‘good insects.’
Okay, let's not sit around all day drinking herbal tea, let's do it!
You can set this organic no-dig garden up on your lawn or on any grassy area. If the grass is long, don’t cut it, stomp it down flat. Your no-dig garden should be long-ways to the sun, so the sun gets a good lick at the plants, as it travels across the sky.
If later on you decide that you don’t need your no-dig garden any more, (not a likely happening!) you can remove it and let the lawn grow again! Your no-dig garden can be any size, but we found the size described below works really well.
First, you need 6 old discarded railway sleepers, or similar timber, or cement blocks. Don’t use treated pine, it has a cyanide content which can leach into your garden.
Place 2 sleepers long-ways, on the lawn or suitable grassy area. Stand them on their edge, and another two sleepers long-ways, parallel to them, but one sleeper distance apart. You put 1 more sleeper at each end. You now have a rectangle, with all sleepers standing on their edge. You may need to drive a small stick into the ground on each side of the sleepers to ensure they don’t fall over.
Stomp the grass flat if you need to, or slash and lay on the ground. Then sprinkle some blood and bone, or seaweed fertiliser on the grass. This will help to bring up the worms. Cover all with a layer of newspaper, at least 4 or 5 layers of paper thick. Hose the paper down so it doesn’t fly away in the breeze. Sprinkle three or four double handfuls of dried chicken manure pellets over the paper, the pellets are full of nitrogen, and an excellent organic fertiliser.
Place a layer of horse or cow manure over all, 2 or 3 inches thick. You can also use compost, decomposing hay, or any similar medium. Water if dry.
Then acquire two bales of hay, with some lucerne (alfalfa) content if you can find it. The lucerne helps put nitrogen into your garden as it breaks down. Break the hay into square pallets, 4 or 5 inches thick, and place on top of the manure, just as if you were laying tiles! Water again. You are now finished except for the planting of your herbs and/or vegetables.
Make a small hole between the pallets of hay, in the corners where they join. Fill with a handful of compost or rich soil, and plant your seeds or seedlings. Spinach, beans, cabbage, lettuce or whatever. You can plant companion herbs in-between the seedlings if you wish. A few spring onions or garlic bulbs planted here and there help keep away bugs.
Put a small, temporary fence around if you need to keep animals out. Water regularly, and in a few weeks you can sit down and enjoy your own home-grown herbs and vegetables. When the vegetables have all been eaten, dry any herbs that are left for later use. Then get another couple of bales of hay and start all over again, on top of it all!
Depending on your local climate, your no-dig garden can produce 2 or 3, sometimes 4, crops a year. Try not to grow monocultures, that is, you should mix up your plants a bit. You can have some root crops, such as swedes or turnips, happily growing mixed in with leaf crops and tomatoes.
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Insektisida racun kontak dan lambung berbentuk cairan pekatan berwarna kuning untuk mengendalikan hama utama pada tanaman pangan, palawija, sayur - sayuran, buah-buahan seperti kacang panjang, kedelai, tembakau, padi, cabai, terong, dan tanaman perkebunan.
- Bekerja dengan cepat
- Mematikan berbagai jenis hama tanaman
- Mudah dicampur
- Bekerja efektif untuk mengendalikan berbagai jenis serangga pengganggu tanaman khususnya dari jenis ulat, kutu dan Thrips sp, wereng, belalang dan ulat daun.
- Bekerja melumpuhkan serangga hama tanaman dalam waktu relatif singkat.
- Diproduksi di dalam negeri dan dapat digunakan secara efektif dengan dosis rendah sehingga penggunaannya lebih ekonomis.
- Dapat dicampur dengan insektisida lain khususnya dari golongan organofosfat antara lain klorpirifos, profenofos dan triazofos.
* Petunjuk Keamanan
Jangan makan/minum atau merokok pada waktu bekerja. Pakailah sarung tangan, pelindung tubuh, topeng muka, gunakan pakaian berlengan panjang /celana panjang serta jauhkan dari nyala api pada waktu membuka wadah dan memindahkan pada waktu bekerja. Sebelum makan, minum atau merokok dan setelah bekerja, cucilah tangan atau kulit yang terkena insektisida ini dengan air sabun, yang banyak, jangan menggunakan insektisida ini 10 hari sebelum tanaman dipanen untuk tanaman pangan. Setelah digunakan cucilah dengan air semua peralatan semprot dan pakaian pelindung jangan mencemari kolam, perairan dan sumber air lainnya dengan insektisida ini atau wadah bekasnya. Simpan insektisida ini secara tertutup rapat di tempat sejuk dan kering, jauh dari bahan makanan, api, sumber air dan jangkauan anak-anak.Rusakkanlah wadah bekasnya, kemudian tanamlah sekurang-kurangnya 0,5 meter di dalam tanah dan jauh dari sumber air.
* Perawatan oleh Dokter
Perawatan dilakukan secara simptomatik sesuai dengan gejala yang timbul
* Gejala Dini Keracunan
Kulit atau mata terasa gatal atau terbakar, pusing, sakit kepala, banyak menimbulkan keringat, mual, mencret,badan gemetar, pingsan. o Apabila satu atau lebih gejala tersebut timbul, segera berhenti bekerja, lakukan tindakan pertolongan pertama dan pergilah ke Puskesmas/dokter terdekat.
* Petunjuk Pertolongan Pertama pada Keracunan
Tanggalkan pakaian yang terkena insektisida ini. Apabila kulit terkena, segera cuci dengan sabun dan air yang banyak. Apabila mata terkena, cucilah segera dengan air bersih selama sedikitnya 15 menit. Apabila tertelan dan penderita masih sadar, segera usahakan permuntahan dengan memberikan segelas air hangat yang diberi 1 sendok garam dapur atau dengan cara menggelitik tenggorokan penderita dengan jari tangan yang bersih sampai cairan muntahan menjadi jernih. Jangan memberi sesuatu melalui mulut kepada penderita yang pingsan/tidak sadar.Apabila terhisap segera dibawa ke ruangan yang berudara sejuk/segar, apabila perlu berikan pernafasan buatan melalui mulut atau dengan pemberian oksigen.
contact us: chlorocide@mail.com
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The new of CHLOROCIDE MULTI FUNCTION is new product by hananta inc, purwodadi - Indonesia.Chlorocide is herbal insecticide and fertilizer formulated for organic plant Chemicals free. save for human, environmentaly, no polution.
CHLOROCIDE is made by extract neem (Azzadiracta Indica) pure and aloe vera green from Indonesia so that it can result herbal insecticide and fertilizer.
Neem Extract able to kill pest, bug, caterpillars, grasshoppers step by step until never came up anymore, and then Aloe vera extract give nutrition for plant and increase harvest.
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Choosing which chemicals to use when your home has been invaded by pests can be a challenge. You have to be concerned with the safety of your family, pets and, if the pests are in your kitchen, the foods you prepare. Fortunately, there are some do-it-yourself alternatives to the chemicals used by pesticide companies.
- Two things that act as pesticides but are safe to use in areas around children, pets and food are boric acid powder and food-grade diatomaceous earth. Both are available in powder form and can be purchased from garden supply stores. Boric acid is also available in the pest control aisles of most grocery and super stores.Boric acid and diatomaceous earth work to eliminate pests by dehydration. Boric acid is a dessicant; pests such as roaches and ants consume it and/or track through it and bring it back to the nest. Consuming it kills the adult insect; bringing it back to the nest dries out the soft juvenile larvae and eggs.Diatomaceous earth is made from the powdered shells of microscopic diatoms. Diatoms have a hard exoskeleton or shell made up of silicon. When their shells are ground, the microscopic pieces have sharp, pointed edges. When an insect comes into contact with diatomaceous earth, these pieces cut tiny holes in its shell, causing the water inside the insect to evaporate. The insect then dehydrates and dies.
- To use boric acid to kill pests in your home, you need to leave the powder in places where insects may walk through it. In areas that are hidden from children and pets such as under the stove and refrigerator, sprinkle the powder directly on the floor. A thick line where the baseboard meets the wall will catch bugs that are traveling along the wall and those that are moving upward. On counter tops and in cabinets, make a mixture of half boric acid and half flour and add a little sugar to attract the bugs. Put this mixture in a spare jar lid or other flat, lipped dish and tuck it into dark corners.Although boric acid is relatively safe compared to other chemical pesticides, be sure to keep the dishes out of reach of children and away from pets. Clean up any spilled powder immediately and keep the container closed and out of the reach of children. If you keep the powder in a cabinet where dishes are also kept, rinse each dish before use.
- To use diatomaceous earth as a pesticide, you can use the same methods as you do with boric acid. In addition, because food-grade diatomaceous earth is safe for consumption by humans and pets, you can place a dish or pile of it anywhere at all that you have seen pests, including counter tops or exposed corners on the floor.You can also use diatomaceous earth to treat small pests like fleas that may be in your carpet. Liberally sprinkle the carpet with the diatmaceous earth. Let it sit for a few minutes to insure that the grains sink all the way to the base of the carpet and coat any insects that may be lurking there. Vacuum the carpet thoroughly and immediately dispose of the bag or empty the canister to help prevent re-infestation.Although diatomaceous earth is safe for use around people and animals, it is a fine dust. People with dust allergies or asthma may need to wear a dusk musk when working with diatomaceous earth. As with other household products, keep your diatomaceous earth in a container with a lid and store it in a cool, dry space away from the reach of children.
